The fishing village of Teriberka is the most accessible place on the Russian coast of the Barents Sea, and hence the open seas of the Arctic Ocean in general. Recently, it has been popular - I often see reports from there on LiveJournal, and in the village itself I met tourists three times in one night. But the locals, as usual, have not yet realized how famous they are, so the view of this village at the End of the Earth is still completely authentic. This is the closest End of the Earth to us.
I have already told about the road from Murmansk to Teriberka. The village consists of two parts, between which there are about three kilometers - Staraya Teriberka (300 inhabitants) and Lodeynoye (1000 inhabitants). The second is now the center of the village, where all life is concentrated. But the bus first arrived in Old Teriberka, and the first impression of it looks like this:
It's beautiful and dark here. More precisely, it is very beautiful and very gloomy. A half-dead village surrounded by treeless hills and open to the icy sea. The first hour here, I was just trying to get used to the fantastic landscape around me.
Teriberka is actually an old Pomeranian village, known since 1523, that is, even before the appearance of the Kola prison. She stood on one of the main Pomeranian "roads" - along the coast from the White Sea to Kola, and later - on the path that English and Dutch merchants went to Russia. It was a long time ago, since then nothing has remained - all the buildings of Teriberka are Soviet.
The village was one of the most important on Murman already in the 19th century (for example, the first weather station in these parts was founded here), but it flourished in the post-war years - there was a port, a deer herd of 2000 heads grazed on the surrounding hills, cod and salmon were mined, and the population reached 4.5 thousand people. Then the decline gradually began: in the late 1960s, Teriberka lost its status as a regional center, and the port ceased to meet the tonnage of modern ships. Then they brought deer to Lovozero. In the 1980s, the construction of the Terbiresky HPPs led to the decline of fishing. By 1989, there were already 2.5 thousand inhabitants, and now there are half as many. In 1997, Teriberka lost its status as an urban-type settlement and became a village.
The center of the old village - either the administration, or the recreation center:
Makeshift Church:
Surreal, but absolutely ordinary landscape here:
Another reminder of the rich history is the cemetery. The girls against his background are apparently local. The people in Teriberka are open, but they don’t have such goodwill as in the villages of the Russian North - they don’t smile, and they don’t invite guests. People here are not angrier - but harsher:
Behind the cemetery in the rocks a passage is punched:
Which leads to the local Great Construction. Approximately 500 kilometers away, in the open sea, is the gigantic Shtokman gas field - and Gazprom is planning to start developing it soon. From there, the gas will go to Teriberka, where it will be liquefied and shipped by tankers for export. The locals have high hopes for this: if all this works, Teriberka will not even become an urban-type settlement, as before, but a city. Moreover, it is a rich and modern city.
I went down to the shore of Lodeynaya Bay. On the left is Lodeynoye, on the right is Cape Teribersky, and in the center is the open sea. Here I saw him for the first time. And I immediately remembered the words of my father, who says that the Barents Sea is evil: on this beach, only the sand cramped my legs. Thanks to the Holsftrim, the Barents Sea does not freeze - but even in summer its temperature rarely reaches even +5 degrees.
Across the bay, 2-3 kilometers from here is Lodeynoye, which looks much livelier and more solid:
In the coastal grass - kukhtyl, a large float marking the network:
Here I met these people - Andrei and Alexei. Andrey, an old geologist from St. Petersburg, is waiting for students here for a two-week practice. Alexey - I met him at the bus station in Murmansk, we arrived on the same bus; he is also a traveler, his own man in Central Asia and Tibet. I drank tea with them for an hour and a half, talked about travels, the Kola ultra-deep, local customs and a killer whale that came into the bay a couple of days ago. Andrei told me in detail how to go to the waterfall and even gave me a photocopy of the map and a can of canned food to boot.
Near the shore here meets a small Cemetery of Ships. More precisely, the ships here are mixed up alive and dead:
And on land only because the tide is low:
More cooks:
This barge looks like it was pecked at by giant birds:
"Swim or ride, the end is known: everyone will fall into the ground, everything will be dust..."
"At the patriarchal dump of obsolete concepts, used images and polite words..."
But a couple of quite live boats. Pay attention to the "slingshots" - this is here instead of moorings. The boat stands on this cart, at high tide it is simply driven into the water and unhooked. So most of the local boats are not only alive, but also at sea:
The mouth of Teriberka in all its glory. The landscape is painfully familiar - after all, in early childhood I lived in Kamchatka, and I happened to spend two months with my hydrobiologist parents on the Commander Islands on the border of the Bering Sea with the Pacific Ocean. There are almost the same rocky treeless hills:
View upstream Teriberka. In the channel, it is especially shallow because of the hydroelectric power station, and then there is also the ebb:
Near the shore - deeply and dearly beloved by me nyasha. This is an extremely viscous sludge, into which a person instantly sinks at least waist-deep. And then - the tide, and remember your name ... So, tourists, do not climb into the nyasha.
Views of Old Teriberka from the road:
And ahead is another graveyard of ships, much larger:
Decks of dead ships against the backdrop of the village:
The ships are wooden, there are 12 of them in total, and they write on the Internet - "probably from the beginning of the 20th century." I think, rather, the middle ones, and most likely it was the fleet of the fishing collective farm, abandoned after the closure of the fish factory. So they lie here like dead whales, and skeletons appear under the boards.
I go further. Cars drive past, they can be heard for a couple of kilometers, and as each one approaches, the thought flickers - "But isn't my death being carried there?". But they pass without stopping. Part travels from Lodeynoye to Staraya Teriberka, part - towards Murmansk. Mosquitoes attack and I douse myself with repellant from head to toe.
I climbed a rock, sat a little on its edge, and thought to go down to Lodeynoye - but there was a deep cliff ahead. Music, voices, laughter and crying came from somewhere - I tried to understand where the company was sitting and what was happening with them. Only after listening, I guessed that these were birds screaming - just like people, only in a foreign language!
Sunlit harbor. On the other side are the new buildings of the fish factory, which has been revived literally in recent years. I already wrote about a man from Vladimir who moved here to live two years ago in the last part. The village is gradually coming to life, the worst years are behind us.
I make a small detour, go down to the road and go down to the village. There is a cross on the hill, and as I was convinced later, half of the hills are crowned with crosses here. After all, crosses were navigation signs of the Pomors until the 19th century, and as already mentioned, the main sea route of the Russian North ran past Teriberka. A dozen crosses on the hills - an attempt to reconstruct it:
The outside. Abandoned houses cannot be distinguished at first glance from residential ones. In one place a woman called out to me: "What are you doing here now?". I honestly said that I am a tourist, I walk, I take pictures. The woman turned out to be from the Moscow region, she came here for the summer, and this is not uncommon in Teriberka. On the bus, I traveled, on the contrary, with a woman who left here for Moscow in difficult years, but also travels here for the summer. Summer residents from the "mainland" are most likely friends of those who left here.
The usual entrance of an ordinary house:
Ordinary other world:
What, I wonder, for a barn right above the water?
Pier opposite the fish factory:
Ship repair workshops:
A barn on the slope of a hill - a former marine station (ticket office and guest house):
And the cargo and fishing port is actually operating here. My father spent several days in Teriberka on the last expedition - the trawler broke down and came here for repairs (apparently, they repaired it on their own or some spare parts were brought from Murmansk). Moreover, they also traveled back from Teriberka - the trawler landed the expedition here and continued its fishing trip without returning to Murmansk. Until recently, the head of Teriberka was not anyone, but Captain Valery Yarantsev, a poacher who almost became a pirate in 2005: having been caught by the Norwegian fisheries inspection, he went into the territorial waters of Russia on his Elektkron trawler from the Norwegian navy (including frigate "Tromso" and anti-submarine aircraft), besides holding two Norwegian inspectors hostage. However, he treated him like a human being, at the trial they even spoke in his defense, and the captain got off with a fine of 100,000 rubles. And for the locals, he became a hero, because for many here poaching is the main source of livelihood. The Norgs then offered him to become the captain of the Tromsø frigate in order to use his experience to catch Russian poachers, but Yarantsev instead became the mayor of the poaching village. There is a very interesting article about Yarantsev in the "Russian Reporter" - the character is very complex and very Russian. In the end, however, he was removed from his post.
And going down the stairs, I met a car with Moscow numbers - and by no means an SUV. There were four natural hipsters in the car, a little younger than me. They asked where you can spend the night - I replied that there is no hotel here, theoretically there is a hostel of a fish factory, but I don’t know anything - I arrived for the night from bus to bus. The guys rode back from the waterfall. A week earlier on (Tersky coast) I talked with bikers who organized a rally in Teriberka, about three hundred people and all with their motorcycles. It seemed to me that the tourist flow there is much greater than even in, and it is surprising that no one has yet begun to invest in the development of infrastructure here. It would seem that it could be easier - to buy a barrack and equip a hotel in it? I think it's ahead...
And the Sun is not dawn and not sunset, but deep night. I think at the end of June it’s just light here at night, and on July 11 here the sunset turned into dawn.
In the central part of Teriberka, I photographed mainly on the way back. After all, I did not come here anyhow, but on Fisherman's Day - that is, on the main holiday of these places. He was also marked noticeably in Murmansk, to say nothing of the village at the fish factory. In a word, I was alone at night among drunken fishermen. The company of drunken youth always scares me, although I understood with my mind that no one would offend me here. Why? Because it is not according to the concepts - to offend someone who came to the End of the Earth.
Another barrack church, more capital, in proportion to the size of the village. She even has her own website:
Another species typical of the Far North. Traces of the devastation of past years and signs of revival. In general, not much is said about the catastrophe of the Far North - it somehow remained in the shadow of the tragedies of the Caucasus. But just imagine: a village without roads, communicating with the "mainland" only by air and being an absolute single-industry town, suddenly loses its city-forming enterprise. The delivery of food and fuel is weakening, there is no money to repair the infrastructure, the boiler house may not work in forty-degree frosts, people put potbelly stoves in five-story buildings ... There is no money and no way to get out. They say that apartments in such settlements cost no more than 5,000 rubles. It got to the point that people ate compound feed. Only the wealth of nature saved from mass starvation deaths - you can only die of hunger in the Far North on purpose: there are enough fish, game, mushrooms, berries here for everyone. And yet those events were a little less terrible than the Chechen war. Then everything partially calmed down: some cities and towns finally died, others (like Norilsk) recovered, and people go there again for the "long ruble". Teriberka is lucky that it is not so cold here, and the "mainland" is nearby. She got off easy...
School and kindergarten, renovated with the money of "Gazprom". In the article about Yarantsev, to which I gave a link, apparently, the facts are still somewhat distorted in the direction "everything is bad and it will only get worse" - the locals with whom I spoke look at the Gazprom construction site with hope, and things are not going well at the fish factory so bad. Some even move here. However, how many people in the famine years here just drank themselves and became a kind of "homeless-with-apartment"?
I walked through Lodeynoye almost from edge to edge. Looking back:
And my path lay to the shore of the Barents Sea, which will be the subject of the next part. The last one in this series.
POLAR DAY-2011
on the Kola Peninsula. The settlement is located near the confluence of the river of the same name into the Barents Sea. Once it was a working settlement, but in the nineties enterprises closed, local residents lost their jobs and gradually began to leave their homes. Teriberka was transformed into a village, which today is in a rather deplorable state.
Nevertheless, tourists often come here. What draws them to these godforsaken places? Are there attractions in Teriberka? Or is the charm of these places only in the wild nature and remoteness from the big city?
First settlement
As already mentioned, the village is located on the banks of the Teriberka River. It is easy to guess that people who appeared here several centuries ago were engaged in fishing. It is known that the first settlement arose in the 17th century. But then, of course, there were very few people here. In 1608, no more than six families lived on the territory of modern Teriberka. The Murmansk region borders on Finland and Norway, and therefore the inhabitants of these places did not always live in peace. In 1623, the village was attacked by a military squadron, but not Finnish and not Norwegian, but Danish. The opponents drove the Russian army deep into the mainland, seized supplies and destroyed captured boats.
Teriberka in the 19th century
The inhabitants of the camp lived restlessly even two hundred years later. In 1809 the settlement was burned down by the British. However, after 14 years it was restored, and it became one of the best in the Murmansk region. In the middle of the 19th century, active settlement of Teriberka began. Russian colonists arrived here. The government created quite favorable conditions, new residents, for example, received good benefits. True, at first they had to live in dugouts, but these people, apparently, were quite industrious. The locals were engaged in fishing and animal husbandry.
In the second half of the 19th century, the first Orthodox church appeared in Teriberka. It was built on the donation of industrialists. And in 1875, the Church of the Prophet Elijah was opened, and ten years later, the Church of the Icon of the Mother of God. At the end of the 19th century, a lighthouse with a pneumatic siren was put into operation.
By the beginning of the 20th century, Teriberka had become a full-fledged settlement. There were churches, a lighthouse, and a hydrometeorological station founded in 1893. In addition, there was a paramedic's station - the only one on the entire coast. At the same time, schools and a people's house were opened - a type of cultural and educational institution common in pre-revolutionary Russia.
At the beginning of the century, shark and cod fisheries were especially developed. True, the Norwegians were mainly engaged in this type of activity, who had their own shop and a trading post here. The cod trade was quite active. Five years before the revolution, Teriberka became a regional center; by the beginning of the First World War, more than one and a half thousand people lived here.
After the revolution, of course, much has changed. The Norwegians had to stop their business. A collective farm was organized on the territory of the settlement, which included, in addition to fishing shnyaks, a dairy herd. By the end of the 1920s, the village was already the center of the district of the same name. And in the early thirties, a nursery for the children of collective farm workers was opened here.
In addition to the above trades, the herring and salmon fishing has also developed. In February 1930, a new collective farm was established and named Krasnoye Znamya. Significant support was provided to him by the revolutionary and military leader Kliment Voroshilov. In 1932, a motor-fishing station was opened, which became one of the first on the peninsula. This station included both a pier and ship repair workshops.
In the 1930s, dispossessed peasants from Astrakhan made up the majority of the population. Local residents equipped a radio center, carried out electrification, built a cinema, a club, hospitals, and began to publish a newspaper. Teriberka received the status of a working settlement in 1938. But the real heyday of the settlement came in the post-war years.
During the Great Patriotic War, air defense troops were stationed here. Despite the fact that Teriberka was located behind the front line, it was attacked several times by German bombers. The collective farm continued to work, but almost all products were sent to the front.
In the fifties, Teriberka had a dairy factory, a poultry farm, a large herd of deer, and an American mink breeding enterprise. In those days, the inhabitants of the village earned good money. And this, in turn, contributed to an increase in the population. The village began to decline not after the collapse, but much earlier - in the sixties.
This is a brief history of Teriberka, whose inhabitants once lived in prosperity. Today, less than a thousand people live here. Of these, almost two hundred are unemployed. So what are the sights of Teriberka that attract tourists to these cold lands? After all, today the village is included in the most popular routes.
Attractions in Teriberka (Murmansk)
First of all, it is worth saying that it was here that the famous film "Leviathan" was filmed. Before the release of Zvyagintsev's Oscar-nominated film, the sights of Teriberka were not so visited. However, in the Murmansk region every year comes hundreds of thousands of residents from other regions for fishing and skiing. As for Teriberka, there are about twenty sights here. Among them:
- Teriberka river.
- Church.
- Abandoned port.
- Ship graveyard.
- Old weather station.
- Coastal Defense Battery.
Harsh landscapes
One of the attractions of Teriberka is a waterfall. The river itself is wide, but shallow. Already on the way to it, the gaze of the traveler opens up bewitching harsh pictures. Only those who have been to volcanoes have seen something like this. Stones, lichens, wild berries, fog - the landscape of Teriberka, Murmansk region. Attractions, photos of which are taken by tourists, will not interest everyone. Painfully gloomy may seem the local landscape. You can capture the waterfall from several angles.
Batteries
Strong winds blow here. The climate is quite harsh. Shrubs and trees are found mainly in areas that are protected from the wind by the hills. The village was raided during the Great Patriotic War. The most visited attraction of Teriberka reminds of wartime. Cannons and other weapons can be seen where the air defense forces were located during the war years.
In the ship cemetery you can see the ships that were used back in the thirties of the last century. The village discussed in this article is also notable for the fact that this is the only place on the coast of the Arctic Ocean that can be reached by car. And finally, almost every winter night you can see the northern lights here.
In January 2018, the ZIRCON Research Group went on an express expedition to Teriberka, a village in the Murmansk region. Sociologists told the Zapovednik about the prospects opened up for Teriberka after the release of the Leviathan film, how the locals relate to the emerging tourism business, and what role Pomor culture plays in this.
Igor Veniaminovich Zadorin, Head of the ZIRCON Research Group
Ludmila Viktorovna Shubina, Deputy Head
Elena Vladimirovna Khalkina, field work manager
Anna Pavlovna Khomyakova, sociologist-analyst
Varvara Alekseevna Zotova, sociologist-analyst
I. V. Zadorin: This project was commissioned by LavkaLavka, its division "Greater Earth", which is engaged in the development of territories for business purposes. They are developing a strategy for the socio-economic development of the rural settlement of Teriberka, and for this task they ordered a sociological study to assess the human potential of the territory. In fact, it turned out to be complicity, because we did part of the work, namely the analytical processing of the collected material and the preparation of the final report for free, investing our efforts and money in this study. For us, participation in this project is, first of all, the development of the method of sociological express expedition. We have a long-standing interest in this method, we have already done similar things, and we have many different kinds of considerations, proposals with other subjects who can also set similar tasks. This is a good case for practicing the method.
"Normal" ethnographic expeditions involve a long stay in the place under study, when the researcher gets used to the local community, becomes in a sense his own. An express expedition is deprived of such opportunities, but it has other advantages: the effect of too “smart field” is reduced, when the local community begins to reflect on sociologists - they have already been living with us for a month, you need to say something to them - and the locals begin between agree with yourself.
We considered the readiness of the current population of Teriberka for changes within the framework of the development strategy proposed by the business. Is there enough population at all to implement existing plans: is it necessary to retrain it, or somehow attract a new population, especially since there has recently been a certain migration increase due to visitors. This is an audit of human potential not only from the point of view of simply physical presence, psychological readiness and qualifications of people, but also as social capital: how strong is internal trust, unity, solidarity, or are they all atomized. All this is very important in any reforms and changes. When different scenarios and opportunities open up for a territory, when there is such a fork in the changes, it is important to understand what the population is more inclined towards, what it is more ready for in terms of its qualifications, skills, and values.
Participants of the express expedition Photo courtesy of the ZIRCON Research Group
L. V. Shubina: In Soviet times, Teriberka was a ZATO (closed administrative-territorial entity), in which more than five thousand people lived, and there were industries, including fish processing enterprises and a large ship repair plant - the USSR, as you know, heavily invested in the development of the North. In the 1990s, when privatization began, practically everything was closed, including this shipyard, which was the main enterprise of Teriberka, people were left without work and began to leave. Now about seven hundred people are registered there, but it is believed that about five hundred actually live there, including children and pensioners, and there are not so many able-bodied people.
Of course, in Russia many rural settlements and villages have died, disappeared from the face of the earth. This could also happen to Teriberka, but today there are people who are interested in breathing new life into it. To a certain extent, the film "Leviathan", which was filmed there, served as an impetus: it fueled interest in the territory. Now the government of the Murmansk region has plans to develop this territory, and some business structures in Moscow are interested in reviving Teriberka.
A. P. Khomyakova: Of the specific areas of development, these are, first of all, different options for tourism. Now there are quite a lot of people who want to see the northern nature, the polar lights, ornithological trails, berries, mushrooms, etc., then there is gastronomic tourism, fishing and sports activities for tourists - for example, a kiting school. The revival of production is probably possible, but this option is considered to a lesser extent by the main agents of change.
It could be fish processing - just before our arrival, the fish processing plant actually closed there. Other options for production, for example, ship repair, are practically not considered. For residents, this seems to be an obsolete story, although they are very sensitive to this, they remember it with warmth.
L. V. Shubina: In general, it seems to me that local residents already have an outside idea that they will develop through tourism. Somewhere we even heard words about a resort of federal significance - in principle, this is possible. There is nature, northern beauties, berries, cloudberries, mushrooms, fish, crabs, for which there is still a ban on catching, but this will probably be solved somehow.
Teriberka Photo courtesy of the ZIRCON Research Group
Teriberka Photo courtesy of the ZIRCON Research Group
L. V. Shubina: Of course, tourism business is a completely new type of employment for residents of Teriberka. Therefore, those who are trying to develop tourism there have great concerns about whether people will be ready to work in the tourist service sector. We have heard opinions from several businessmen that the Teriberians are not very ready to be service personnel, they consider it below their dignity, and such a field of activity is unusual for them. Although, if you directly ask the residents themselves a question, they say that they don’t see anything humiliating in this.
A. P. Khomyakova: The settlement is about five hundred years old, it has existed since the 16th century, Pomeranian traditions are still strong there, this culture is important for them. These are fishermen - albeit without any high education, but these are people with such a free spirit. We tried to find out about the roots, about how long the permanent residents live in Teriberka. It turned out that often these are people who have one parent who is a visitor, one is a local. Or they got there by distribution. People live there for thirty or forty years, but they carry these traditions of love of freedom, the northern spirit. They do not see themselves in anything other than fishing or production related to fish. Either in Teriberka or nearby, where it is planned to build a plant for processing wild plants: berries, herbs - this is also interesting for local residents. And it is still unusual for them to work in hotels, and they do not know how.
L. V. Shubina: A few locals work in existing hotels, often motivated by the fact that they are paid less than visitors. For example, they opened a restaurant and brought workers from Murmansk there, they brought a married couple of cooks from the middle lane to the hotel - they are paid more, but, according to them, this is not offered to residents of Teriberka. Business owners do not agree with this opinion. Formally, there are no barriers, but some businessmen say that the locals will get the first salary and get drunk, or that they want a big salary and do not work for the one they are offered. Residents say they are not invited and are paid less than those coming from Murmansk. Those. there is a very large mutual distrust and misunderstanding between locals and visitors who are trying to do something there. It is very understandable: at first, in the 1990s, people were “thrown” very strongly, then Gazprom was going to develop a field there, they laid a big road from one part of the settlement to another, but then the plans changed. The locals remember it with regret. Probably, work at the Gazprom facility would be closer to them, because it is still some kind of production, as it was in Soviet times.
Teriberka Photo courtesy of the ZIRCON Research Group
Teriberka Photo courtesy of the ZIRCON Research Group
E. V. Khalkina: I must say that for such a small village of five hundred people there is a significant number of state municipal vacancies, which employ local people. For example, in a library: a library director, two librarians, an assistant librarian. The school, where 46 children study, has a director, head teacher, supply manager, cook and a full set of teachers. There is a sufficient set of municipal services. There are many vacancies that are provided with salaries and have benefits for housing and communal services, which are hidden incomes - such a social package, and for them this is important at their salary level.
In interviews, residents said that they prefer a measured and calm public service with predictable guarantees and prospects - this is a kind of paternalism, such a trait of character.
L. V. Shubina: The Soviet Union developed the northern territories, it was interested in people working and settling there, they had northern benefits. People are used to this attitude, and it is probably difficult for them to change. The 5,000 who left this place are most likely the most active people who left in search of a better life. Of the remaining five hundred, two hundred people are pensioners, and if you take away the children, then not so many remain. And these people are accustomed to work steadily, receiving a monthly salary.
To questions about unemployment, we were always answered: whoever wants, he works. Probably, there are people who do not have a job, but they live on something. There are various informal forms of employment in Teriberka: picking berries, mushrooms, fishing, fish and crab poaching.
A. P. Khomyakova: And a lot of the population is involved in tourism informally: here you can rent out housing and transport for tourists. Tourists are brought from Murmansk, they ride around the neighborhood on snowmobiles, there are ships that take fishing enthusiasts to the sea.
I. V. Zadorin: It must be said that the shadow economy, which is highly developed in Teriberka, seems to create significant barriers to increasing social capital and public trust. People involved in, say, illegal crab fishing naturally distance themselves from new residents and begin to look at their neighbors with apprehension. It is no coincidence that many businessmen told us about the impossibility of reaching an agreement with their partners on cooperation. Bringing such activities out of the shadows is an absolutely necessary element of increasing the level of mutual trust of residents, increasing involvement in the processes of transformation and development of the territory. In the meantime, many feel like lone wolves, unable to rely on anyone. Like in Leviathan.
Coast of the Barents Sea near Teriberka Photo courtesy of the ZIRCON Research Group
Teriberka Photo courtesy of the ZIRCON Research Group
E. V. Khalkina: I must say that their attitude to the story of the film is ambivalent, even paradoxical. "Leviathan" is their blessing and their cross. Even though it is always said that the film is not about Teriberka, people see Teriberka in these shots; they believe that it was shown completely incorrectly, both from the point of view of people and from the point of view of morals.
The influx of tourists after the film - of course, this is money. But we do not know exactly how the income from organized tourism is distributed, and, according to local residents, most of the money goes to travel companies that are located in Murmansk, and even in Moscow. There are no local travel companies that would pay taxes to the Teriberian budget. At the same time, the tourist flow is really very large, and, as we saw for ourselves, it is all-season, and not just summer, when there is a big festival with rock musicians.
A. P. Khomyakova: The festival, by the way, scares many: locals do not accept youth music and the subculture in general, in the format of which the festival is held, they are scared by the abundance of guests and the difficulties associated with it (garbage, not always successful organization, etc.), many leave for a while holiday festival. But in general, people in Teriberka are open, it cannot be said that they are closed and tense.
E. V. Khalkina: In 2015, there were only 15 thousand tourists, and in 2017 - 43 thousand. Moreover, these are not only Russians: a large number of foreign tourists, a lot of Chinese, Scandinavians, there are Swiss, Austrians.
L. V. Shubina: Tourists bring excitement. On the other hand, someone complains that it has not become so calm: visitors trample down berries, trails, some lingonberries no longer grow, the environment has been spoiled, gasoline is poured out.
E. V. Khalkina: From the point of view of an outside observer, in general, tourism still gives something to the locals. The principal of the school sees more positive things: everyone walks with phones with translators, children learn a foreign language - people turn on. And pensioners, for whom lingonberries, trails and waterfalls are the sphere of their life, especially in summer, see more negativity.
V. A. Zotova: There is a certain doublethink here. People have come to terms with the influx of tourists - as with some kind of inevitability. They do not see the money from tourism that it would bring to the village as a whole: it brings income to some specific people who, for example, rent apartments. They do not see that this qualitatively improves life in the village. In their opinion, what is being done for tourists does not yet affect the lives of locals. Tourists are allowed more than locals: tourists can take a bath in old Teriberka out of turn. If a tourist accidentally catches a crab, he is not punished, but for locals it is a criminal liability.
Teriberka Photo courtesy of the ZIRCON Research Group
L. V. Shubina: People don't take it for granted now. Tourism is seen as something unreliable: that people run into Teriberka, and there will be a decline. There is a fear that they will be deceived again, they do not have a sense of stability.
A. P. Khomyakova: This new job in tourism, according to the locals, is now there - tomorrow it won't be: the season is over and that's it. And in the public service they receive a minimum, but at least it is stable.
Of course, residents of Teriberka should be included in tourism, made co-workers in this process. It is not necessary to do this with financial incentives: a kiting school in the village teaches children for free, arranges competitions - this is an obvious social bonus.
L. V. Shubina: It is very important that businesses invest not only in tourism infrastructure, but also in the infrastructure of the village. It consists of two parts: the old Teriberka and Lodeynoye. The main tourist facilities, hotels and restaurants, were built in the old Teriberka, and the prices there are Moscow, for the locals they are completely inadequate. And in Lodeynoye there is no cafe, no canteen, no bar, no hairdresser, now they are closing the pharmacy kiosk. If people felt that they were doing something for them, then the attitude towards visitors would change. The road was built for them - they are very happy, this is definitely perceived positively.
E. V. Khalkina: But the maximum, as they assess their current situation, is that the recession has ended. No growth yet.
L. V. Shubina: For any development it is necessary to have youth. And schoolchildren - 46 people, in the tenth grade there are none, in the eleventh - two people. They are aimed at getting an education outside of Teriberka, and are unlikely to return. Although some parents say they want their children to return.
On the other hand, there is a reverse flow to Tekriberka. One of our respondents, a young man without a higher education, came from Murmansk just as a romantic, he just liked it. He sees this move as a transitional phase, but it will be delayed for a while. Business is also coming. Moreover, he not only arranges his business in Teriberka, but also transports his family here. There is a small stream of former - those who return, who could not take root in Murmansk.
L. V. Shubina: Teriberka does not give the impression of a depressed area, despite the fact that there are many abandoned houses there due to the fact that ten times as many people lived there before. But nature is so beautiful, and on a white background it doesn’t look depressing at all, but somehow just unusual. Gray Moscow, in comparison with white fields and rainbows in winter, seemed to us more depressing than Teriberka.The people there are completely different from the villagers: they talk like city people, they dress like city people, they are not grandmothers from the village. We didn't see a single drunk at all. They say that there is, of course, but no one said that there is general drunkenness there, probably, it is about the same as everywhere else. Although some business representatives have such an opinion (not very incomprehensible to us) that people work until the first salary, get it and go on a drinking binge.
A. P. Khomyakova: We compared our conversations with local residents with other surveys conducted earlier, a few years ago, on Teriberka, and we can say that people today, if they drink, are much less than before. In previous studies, the topic of drunkenness sounded much more active in interviews than now.
L. V. Shubina: The number of cultural objects, of course, has decreased (there are just fewer people), but you should see this library - it is beautiful and does not look rural at all. The directors of the library and the club are such enthusiasts, very incendiary women: they arrange all sorts of concerts, they try.
There is something to rely on even in terms of tourism potential: someone might not want to be maids, but there would definitely be people who could be guides.
A. P. Khomyakova: There is a Pomeranian choir, which is very much loved - this is what tourism can be built on. A very rich cultural life is concentrated in the library, club and school.
E. V. Khalkina: But despite the fact that there are five hundred of them, they manage to divide and compete with each other.
L. V. Shubina: Yes, there is a feeling of a certain internal disintegration. We tried to find a leader: in such settlements it often happens that people rally not around the local official authorities, but around an informal leader. This is not there, unfortunately, they are a little atomized.
And there is mistrust between residents and incoming businesses. I don't think it's insurmountable, but it needs to be worked on. The same business needs to understand that it has come for a long time, and to involve people. Initially, investing in higher salaries so that people become more positive about the new realities is sometimes important. So that the residents of Teriberka do not feel that the newcomers from Murmansk get more than the locals.
I.V. Zadorin: Now the situation is borderline, a lot depends on the government of the region: how it will help, what goals to set for the development of the territory, what to orient the business coming to Teriberka. It is also important how the business will behave, how it will be able to involve the residents of Teriberka in its activities. Of course, you can take out local residents and bring in non-locals, but it will not be the same place at all, it will not be Teriberka. There are people who know their settlement as if they were their own, and this is important not only for themselves, but also for visiting tourists. So you come to Ryazan - you want to see the inhabitants of Ryazan there, in Altai - the inhabitants of the Altai Territory, the locals bring their local flavor. The specificity and tourist attraction of a place is determined not only by nature, but also by the people living there, their identity and originality. Well, imagine that you have arrived in Teriberka, and there is not a single fisherman, not a single longboat, and everyone works in hotels where they eat fish brought from Norway. This is no longer Teriberka with all its beauties. Of course, efforts are needed to involve the local population in the production of wild plants in order to revive, albeit in small volumes, the fishing industry. Perhaps we should try to return some of those who left. Even if it is not economically profitable now, it is an investment in the future. Into the future, which cannot but rely on the past, Pomeranian traditions, and sustainable values. Without a certain continuity, there can be no effective revival. This is one of the main conclusions that we took away from our very short express expedition.
Teriberka is a village in the Kola district of the Murmansk region on the banks of the river of the same name. The center of the eponymous rural settlement.
The first mention of Teriberka dates back to 1608. By that time, a Russian seasonal settlement of fish merchants appeared here - a camp. From the 70s. In the 19th century, the resettlement of permanent residents (Russian colonists) began in the camp of Teriberka. At the turn of the XIX-XX centuries. it was already a significant settlement: there were two churches with a clergy, a lighthouse, a hydrometeorological station (the first on the Murmansk coast).
Even earlier, the Great Petrovsky Expedition worked here, as evidenced by the geographical names of these places: Deploransky Cape, Zavalishina Bay and others.
At the beginning of the 20th century, cod and shark fisheries were quite developed in Teriberka (they were mainly engaged in the Norwegians, who had their trading post and shop here), there was a fairly active trade in cod. In the late 1920s, the first collective farm was organized, which, in addition to fishing shnyaks, had its own dairy farm and reindeer herd. In 1938, Teriberka received the status of a workers' settlement.
Before the Great Patriotic War for labor achievements, workers of the MTV and fishermen of the collective farm were honored several times to be sent to VDNKh in Moscow, they were noted with government awards and VDNKh diplomas. At about the same time, the construction of ship repair workshops began in the village of Lodein.
Teriberka reached its greatest development after the end of the Great Patriotic War. In 1940-60, there were already two fishing collective farms, two dairy farms, a poultry farm, about 2,000 reindeer, an American mink breeding farm, two fish factories, workshops and warehouses of the Belomorskaya base of Goslova, ship repair shops were working and developing at full capacity, active construction of housing and social and cultural facilities was carried out, there was a stadium, a House of Culture, clubs for ship repair shops and a fish factory, a pioneer club, two schools - an elementary and an eight-year-old, a boarding school for children from villages from the coast, a hospital, a clinic, an outpatient clinic.
Teriberka was a regional center, it developed and grew quite quickly. The decline in the village began in the 1960s, when the area was moved to Severomorsk, large-capacity vessels appeared, fleets went to the ocean, coastal fishing lost its importance, fish processing, due to the development of a fishing port and a fish processing plant in the city of Murmansk, came to naught.
In the process of “enlargement”, the collective farm “Murmanets” was liquidated along with the fur farm, the White Sea base of Goslov disintegrated, the reindeer herd was transferred to the village of Lovozero, the fish factory was liquidated, since large ships could not enter the river.
In the 1980s, during the construction of the Teribersky hydroelectric power station, a salmon herd was barbarously destroyed. In 1997 Teriberka was transformed into a village.
Now the village is in a deplorable state: in addition to the deterioration of the infrastructure as such, the main problem is unemployment. About 170 people are officially unemployed, but there is no work in the village, except for maintaining the life support of the village itself. Teriberka is a half abandoned settlement, there are many completely abandoned buildings, in ruins and a house of culture.
former regional center
348 inhabitants
Wiki: en:Teriberk en:Teriberka (village)
Teriberka in Murmansk region (Russia), description and map linked together. After all, We are places on the world map. Learn more, find more. It is located 247.1 km east of Murmansk. Find interesting places around, with photos and reviews. Check out our interactive map with places around, get more detailed information, get to know the world better.
There was a desire to continue the journey through the north of Russia. When planning my current trip, I was in some confusion - the North is huge, but time is short. As a result, I decided to make a sightseeing trip, making visits to well-known and little-known places in order to understand what to pay more attention to in the future. If everything was clear with the promoted places, well, there, Valaam, Kizhi, then with the little-known, but interesting places, there was complete confusion. The case helped. "Go to Teriberka" - one friend advised: "The natural beauties there simply take out the brain." Well, where it is in the future was explained rudely, but very succinctly: "There is the Murmansk region is the ass of Russia, but Teriberka is the main place of this part of the body." In general, following this terminology and living in the center of the country, and traveling through Siberia, the east ( , ) and the north of Russia, I came to a disappointing conclusion - Russia, with rare exceptions that can be neglected due to the size of the territory, consists of only two parts, this is the mouth, the role of which is played by the beloved capital and asses, to which the rest of the country's territory can be attributed. Teriberka was no exception - a phenomenal devastation and at the same time a unique beauty of nature and surprisingly pleasant people.
Teriberka has been reporting its existence since 1523, when the first Russian settlers settled on the site of the existing village. In the post-war years, the village reached its maximum development, was a major fishing and ship repair center on the Kola Peninsula, and was also a regional center with about 10 thousand inhabitants. The decline of the village began in the 60s of the last century, when the importance of coastal fishing was lost and fishing boats went into the ocean. In those years, the regional center moved to Severomorsk, and the center of fish processing and ship repair moved to Murmansk. But the maximum economic damage to Teriberka, in other words, to the whole country, was caused by modern reformers, when the main economic model for the development of Russia was the sale of raw materials to the West and the purchase of everything else that we consume with this money. Well, the last nail in the coffin of a fading settlement, apparently, will be driven by the modern bureaucracy, centralizing to the maximum, all issues of regulating the economic life of the settlement, which completely kills all entrepreneurial initiative. If in Soviet times, for example, all issues related to the operation of a small vessel were decided by a local inspector, and permission to go to sea at the border guards was of a notification nature, in the form of a phone call to the outpost, now for the same, in fact, you have to go to Murmansk, legitimizing the vessel and entering into the ship's role of each member of the crew. As a result, almost the entire small fleet of villagers rots on the pier or in the courtyards of houses.
The coastal waters of Teriberka are rich in king crab, salmon, and cod. And if cod fishing is not forbidden, then catching crab and salmon for local residents is under the strictest ban. Well, to ensure the implementation of this ban, our all-powerful bureaucracy thought of delegating it to the border guards, who are now in a state of constant war with the local population. The result was an unrealistic, absurd situation for our country - the locals hate the border guards, a branch of the military that has always enjoyed exceptional respect among Russians! And if the adult population is reluctant to talk about this sensitive topic with a stranger, then children are not particularly shy in choosing epithets, apparently these are the elements of modern patriotic education of youth.
, so it would be quite logical to give responsibility for them, but only together with the rights, to the local community. Such a decision could save many places on the map of Russia. What, in my opinion, could be done from the point of view of the state and local authorities so that Teriberka began to develop intensively, if, of course, we are honest in the expression that Russia is for all Russians?
- define the coastal zone in the Barents Sea and its bays for the exclusive economic activity of the local population. Moreover, the zone is determined as such, which local residents are able to effectively use, and it must certainly increase at the suggestion of the local community, if there is a need for this;
- to determine, exclusively for the local population, scientifically based quotas for the catch of king crab and salmon in the zone of this economic activity;
- develop fishing, berry, hunting, hiking, horse riding, cycling, off-road and other tours to visit these unique places;
- inventory all empty apartments and houses of local residents, agree with the owners on the principles of using housing for tourist accommodation;
- to create a hospitality center that would be engaged in the promotion of the territory in the Russian and foreign tourist markets, the sale of tours and accommodation;
- all powers in terms of regulating the economic activities of local residents, including land disposal, to delegate to the level of the settlement;
- all additional taxes that have arisen from entrepreneurship, for fifteen to twenty years, should be left exclusively in the settlement to put in order the completely dead infrastructure.
- to motivate the head of the administration of the settlement in the final results of the development of the settlement. As a whip - to determine only two indicators, if they deteriorate, remove from office:
1. The number of local residents of the titular nationality living in the settlement in the context of each settlement included in the settlement;
2. The amount of additional taxes credited to the local budget for the period of activity of the head of the administration of the settlement.
And as a gingerbread:
1. A certain percentage of additional taxes credited to the budget of the settlement during the activity of the head of the administration, to be directed to an increase in the wage fund of the administration of the settlement.
You say that this is not possible in modern Russia? Yes, I myself know, because today there is a political demand for a degrading population, since only in this state do people not interfere with the ultimate beneficiaries of a CJSC called "Russian Federation" to make capital
Next, a short report from Teriberka, all photos are clickable, they open in a new window in a higher resolution.
2. The way to Teriberka from Murmansk passes through such vast expanses of the North.
3. Total devastation and desolation strikes in Teriberka. They say that not so long ago this coast was simply strewn with a variety of swimming facilities, but the increasingly sophisticated "concern" of the authorities about the needs of the local population actually destroyed the traditional type of activity of the villagers - fishing.
4. And this bay was chosen for the flooding of ships.
5. Front entrance to the part of Teriberka, where the administration, school and other organizations are located.
6. Central street of the village. Interestingly, this road sign was put up out of necessity, or to decorate the center of the village?
7. Church. I have never seen a two-story version of this religious building before.
8. And in this "Hilton" I lived ...
9. Protected and deserted base of a construction company building a road to a future liquefaction plant in the Shtokman field development plan.
10. Either they changed their minds, or the gas ran out, but the road was never completed, and the prospects for building a plant are vague. Or maybe it's for the better - the LNG plant on Sakhalin, for example, to my surprise, actually did not improve the lives of the local population, I doubt that it will be different in Teriberka.
11. I also liked the people in Teriberka. They love their places very much, infect with optimism, and comedians, too. This is how the road sign "No Entry" to the local water intake is designed.
12. Much in Teriberka is reminiscent of the recent status of a "closed" territory. From one part of the village there is an artillery battery based on ship guns,
13. moreover, judging by the direction of the shelling zone - having the ability to conduct all-round defense.
14. and on the other side of the village is the skeleton of a pillbox - apparently this is a building of the middle of the last century.
15. Amazing nature around the village. Waterfall.
16. Spring flowers against the backdrop of the harsh views of the Teribersky Bay.
17. Cloudberry blossoms.
18. One of the shores of the bay.
19. Low tide.
20. Worship cross. There are a lot of them in the Teriberka region. They say they showed the way in ancient times. Something would indicate the way to the prosperity of this amazing place in the Russian north.