GENERAL INFORMATION
The Lubensky regiment existed in 1648-1649, 1658-1782.
Regimental center - Lubny.
Hundred cities (since 1658): Glinsk, Gorodishche (with a break in 1661-1663), Goroshino (1658-1668, 1730-1782), Zhovnin (1742-1782), Konstantinovka (with a break at the end XVII-beginning of the XVIII century), Kurenka (since 1737), Lokhvitsa, Lubny, Lukomye (Lukoml, with a break in 1661-1663), Piryatin, Romny, Sencha, Smila (with a break, the end of the XVII - beginning of the XVIII centuries .), Snitin (about 1687), Khmelev (1742-1782), Chigirin-Dibrova (with interruptions in 1661-1663 and at the end of the XVII-beginning of the XVIII century), Chernukha (break end of the XVII-beginning XVIII century), Yablunov (break 1742-1782).
In Lokhvitsa there were three hundreds, in Lubny, Piryatin, Sencha and Chernukhy - two each.
Scheme of hundreds of towns of the Lubensky regiment.
Banner of the Lubensky regiment.
LUBNY
The first mention of Lubny is in chronicles for 1107, when the Polovtsian Khan Bonyak, who captured herds of horses near Pereyaslav, came with other khans and stood near Luben, on the Sula River. Princes Svyatopolk, Vladimir Monomakh and Oleg with four other princes unexpectedly attacked the camp of the khans and drove them to the Khorol River. The enemy camp was captured.
The Lubenskaya Upland, surrounded on three sides by water and forests, was a good place to build a guard city. The fortress was founded in 1589 on the right mountainous bank of the Sula River at the confluence of the Lubyanka and Olshanka tributaries, where as early as the 11th century. stood the ancient Russian city of Lubno. The Polish king Sigismund III assigned the lands on the Posulya to the Catholic Ukrainian princes Vyshnevetsky, for whom the castle in Lubny served as a residence, in the center of their possessions.
The fortress was one of the strongest in this region of the Left-bank Ukraine. From it, for a long distance, the surrounding area beyond the Sula was clearly visible, which made it possible to trace the path of the enemy in advance and prepare for defense.
At the beginning of the liberation war of the Ukrainian people against the Polish rule, the rebels defeated the Vyshnevetsky castle in Lubny. In 1648, Lubny became the center of the Cossack regiment of the same name.
G. de Beauplan's plan of the first half of the 17th century. testifies that this fortress consisted of two parts. The outer protective fence in the shape of a polygon had 7 bastions, the citadel - 4 on the breaks of the defense line. The fence included earthen ramparts, ditches and a palisade.
Interesting news about the Lubensky fortress of the middle of the XVII century. cites the Turkish traveler Evliya Chelebi, who at that time was studying Ukraine. He described that the fortifications of Luben included 6 strong bastions and the same number of towers. Three gates led to the fortress, surrounded by deep moats. She had a strong artillery park and an arsenal. There were about a thousand houses on its territory.
On the state of the Lubensk fortress at the beginning of the 18th century. He says “Plan of the location of settlements and cities where the main forces of the tsarist army were quartered” in 1709. He depicts the Lubensk fortress with five bastions.
In 1746, the ensign of the Russian army A.I. Rigelman, in connection with the planned reconstruction of the protective structures, prepared the Luben plan. The full name of this cartographic source: “Plan of the Little Russian Lubny regimental city in what condition it is now, with an indication in a design way, as such, it is necessary to strengthen the city of Lubny from the border at a distance of 70 versts.” A copy of this plan is contained in the study by K.P. Bochkarev "Essays of the Lubny antiquity".
According to the plan of A.I. Rigelman Lubenskaya fortress in this period consisted, as before, of two parts: the “city” and the “castle”. The latter is identified with the citadel, which was located on the southeastern ledge of the so-called "Castle Hill", which was called "Val". It had the shape of an irregular quadrangle, its area was about 51,120 square meters. m. The Citadel was slightly distant in the direction from the northeast to the southwest. The perimeter of its sides was about 950 m.
This area of the old fortress is now called the “Upper rampart”. One of the city streets has the same name here. In addition to this earthen rampart, the citadel was surrounded by another one, which, unlike the upper one, was called “Lower” because it was closer to the foot of the mountain. This name has also survived to this day.
The plain where the citadel was located ended on the side of a steep slope (about 75 meters high), with a steepness of about 60-70 degrees, which fell into the valley of the Sulla River, and on the other sides was surrounded by ravines, which had a significant depth.
From the side of the Yar, which went to the river - Lubyanka, the citadel was protected by star-shaped earthen fortifications of Stern-Shans.
The inner territory of the citadel was divided by an earthen rampart 8.5 m high into two parts, where trenches and trenches existed.
The Lubyanka River had two tributaries, the Butsenevka and the Boginichev, and in the Bystryanka tract, near the junction with the Sula, it was blocked by a dam, the remains of which remained until the end of the 19th century. A significant area of water, which formed in this area, surrounded part of the citadel and the “city”. The “urban” part of the fortress had the shape of a polygon, remote, like the citadel from the north side to the southwest. The “city” was separated from the citadel by the Boginichev or Olenetsky Yar. From the side of the Sulla and Lubyanka rivers, this part of the fortress ended in steeps, and closer to the coastline in swamps. On the territory of the "city" there were administrative buildings - the office of the Lubensky regiment and the "colonel's yard".
According to the plan of A.I. Rigelman Lubensky fortress included a "city" and a citadel, had 7 bastions and 9 gates: Piryatinsky, Castle, Polkovnitsky, Lubensky and Brovarsky. The main ones were the Piryatinsky gates, from which the path (road) began to Pyryatin, Zolotonosha and Lokhvitsa, as well as Podolsky or Prechistensky. From the latter, where the city street of the same name /bridge/ approached, the road went through the Podil suburb to the bridge over the Sula near the so-called “Bald Mountain”, and then headed to Mirgorod and to the Dnieper. Mirgorodsky, Nikolsky and Vodyanye gates went to the Sula, and Lubensky and Brovarsky - to the river Lubyanka. The castle gates connected the citadel, and the Polkovnitsky gates connected the colonel's yard, which advantageously had its own protective fence, with the "city".
In addition to passing gates, which could be reinforced with towers, there were also so-called “small gates” for pedestrians in the fortress. They were on the protective fence of the “city”.
From the floor side, the outskirts stretched to the Plutensky, Repyakhevsky and Rybevsky Yars, where the small rivers Plyutenka, Repyakhevka and Rybka flowed. The forstadt was surrounded by earthen ramparts. On the lower outskirts there was the Podol suburb, which was partially covered by Sula.
There were 5 churches in Lubny, 4 of them in the fortress itself: Cathedral, which had the name of the Nativity of the Virgin, and parish: Trinity, Three Saints, Varvaravskaya. On the lower outskirts was the Church of Nicholas.
There were many underground passages and galleries in the fortress. During enemy raids, the burghers of the city found refuge here. In the dungeons, they kept not only property, but even horse cattle, as evidenced by the finds of horse bones and horseshoes.
Identified and to some extent examined in the XIX century. the underground structures of this fortress were located at a depth of 2.5 - 5 meters from the surface, they had ventilation gates. The ceiling was fastened with oak planks.
In 1899, they examined an underground gallery discovered in a place that, on the plan of A.I. Rigelman is designated as the yard of the Lubensky colonel. It passed at a depth of about 2.9 m, had a height from floor to ceiling of 3.2 m, and a width of 2.5 m branched in two directions. One of the underground passages went to the Sula River
The depicted area is called Bald Mountain by the locals. Once there was a fortress here. And as a child, I rummaged around here at night with my homies, lit fires and drank port wine.
Lubensky Castle (near the modern city of Lubny in the Poltava region) was located on a high hill, dominating the entire valley of the Sula River. From here a panorama of the steppe opened for 25 kilometers around. From the east, the castle was protected by the Olshanka River, a tributary of the Sula, and from the north by the Kamenny Potok stream. From the west, the castle was fenced off by a rampart and a deep moat.
The first mention of Lubny dates back to 988. Lubny was founded by order of the Grand Duke of Kyiv Vladimir Svyatoslavovich in the year of the baptism of Russia, on the banks of the Sula River and at first was a small wooden (bast) fortress in the Posular defensive line, on the southeastern border of Kievan Rus. The first chronicle mention of Lubny dates back to 1107 (the Ipatiev Chronicle tells about the defeat of the Polovtsian horde of the khans of Bonyak and Sharukan by the combined forces of Russian princes, led by Vladimir Monomakh, the "circle of Lubna").
In 1590, the Seim of the Commonwealth approved for Alexander Vishnevetsky the right to the desert lands of the Posulye. Here, on the Sula River, in 1589, Alexander Vishnevetsky founded a new city on the old settlement - the place where in the times of Kievan Rus once stood the town of Lubno, known since 1107, - a new city, calling it Alexandrov. But the old name, Lubny, stuck somehow more.
By the end of the 16th century, the possessions of the Vishnevetskys extended to almost the entire Left Bank of the Dnieper. The son of Alexander, Prince Mikhail Vishnevetsky, having married Raina, the daughter of the Moldavian ruler Jeremiah Mogila, chose Lubny as his residence and began to actively develop this vast region, which at that time lay in complete desolation. Attracted by thirty years of tax breaks and the protection of a strong princely army, settlers flocked to the Transdnieper region.
The original unsightly town, built by Alexander Vyshnevetsky, was replaced in 1619 by powerful fortifications, and under Jeremiah Vyshnevetsky, in 1639, the castle was decorated with European luxury. The best craftsmen worked on the interior of the palace. The "throne room" with a dome-shaped ceiling, painted under the vault of heaven with stars, shone with special splendor. The palace was lavishly decorated with marble and granite. Fragments of this luxury could be found right up to the beginning of this century, and a piece of a marble column with a carved capital was lying around in the city garden for a long time. Dismantling the ruins of the castle for rubble, the townspeople found arrowheads, cast-iron cannonballs, horseshoes, silver coins from the time of the Polish kings Sigismund III (1587-1632) and Vladislav IV (1632-1648).
Everything collapsed in the spring of 1648. All of Ukraine rebelled literally in an instant. The army of Bogdan Khmelnitsky defeated the crown troops near Zhovti Vody and Korsun and went to Uman, Belaya Tserkov and Kyiv. The uprising captured the entire Right Bank. Cossack detachments began to appear on the left bank of the Dnieper. Local residents, fearing the soldiers of Jeremiah Vishnevetsky, waited for the time being, slowly running across to the camp of Khmelnitsky. Meanwhile, the ruler of the Dnieper region himself was conferring in the Lubensky castle with his entourage.
The topic of the council convened by Vishnevetsky was one: what to do? A further stay in Lubny threatened to completely cut off Vishnevetsky's possessions from Poland. The peasants of the Left Bank were ready to revolt at any moment. It was necessary to go beyond the Dnieper, but all the crossing facilities were destroyed or stolen by the Cossacks, and Khmelnitsky stood behind the Dnieper with a two hundred thousandth army, which was impossible to resist with six thousand, albeit select, troops.
As a result of the liberation war of the Ukrainian people, the left bank of the Dnieper was forever out of the power of the Polish king, and the “Zadneprovskaya state” of the Vishnevetskys ceased to exist. Jeremiah Vishnevetsky himself died in 1651. And at the end of June 1648, about 15 thousand "free-willed" - rebel peasants, supported by a small detachment of Cossacks - approached the Lubny left by him at the end of June 1648. The city was brutally plundered and burned, the guards and the castle servants were killed, and the rebels literally razed the Vishnevetsky castle to the ground. And many years later, until the end of the 19th century, the ruins of the castle regularly served as a source of free building material for Lubensky residents.
The main mystery of Luben was and remains the mysterious underground galleries - located at a depth of about 3 meters, carefully crafted, with smoothed walls, a vault and numerous disguised vents. In the underground galleries, ancient tiles, several silver coins, a fragment of a sword and some kind of half-decayed printed papers were found.
In the summer of 1916, the search for Vishnevetsky's treasure was first started by a professional - "Columbus of underground Russia", an outstanding archaeologist Ignaty Stelletsky. In 1922 he again came to Lubny and spent two more years excavating the Lubny Castle. Stelletsky managed to discover the dungeon of the town hall, from which the underground passage led directly to the Sula River. Digging up Vyshnevetsky's castle, Stelletsky found a tiled floor and a burnt underground passage with many skeletons of Vyshnevetsky's soldiers who died during the storming of the castle by the Cossacks. An underground passage led into the ravine to Sula. Many items were found in it - sabers, rings, smoking pipes. It was necessary to further clear the ruins of the castle in search of caches with treasures, but this was unexpectedly opposed by the local authorities. In the autumn of 1923, Stelletsky returned to Moscow, and the excavations of the Lubensky castle were stopped.
Treasures of Vishnevetsky. Vishnevetsky Castle in Lubny.
For a century in the Lubensky castle of the Vishnevetskys, huge family wealth has accumulated: income from the Zadneprovsky latifundia, military booty, gifts from the Tatar Khan and Moldavian rulers. With this money, Jeremiah maintained his own 6,000-strong army, a large apparatus of officials who ruled his Zadneprovskaya power, built churches, fortresses, roads ... There was enough money in abundance. Jeremiah Vishnevetsky spent 250 thousand zlotys on his wedding alone.
But in the spring of 1648, the prosperous reign ended. Literally in an instant, all of Ukraine rebelled. The army of Bohdan Khmelnitsky defeated the crown troops near Zhovti Vody and Korsun and went to Uman, Belaya Tserkov and Kyiv. The whole Right Bank was on fire. Cossack detachments began to appear on the left bank of the Dnieper. Local residents, fearing the soldiers of Jeremiah Vishnevetsky, waited for the time being, slowly running across to the camp of Khmelnitsky. Meanwhile, the ruler of the Dnieper region himself was conferring in the Lubensky castle with his entourage.
Vishnevetsky was looking for an answer: what to do? Further stay in Lubny threatened to be completely cut off from Poland. The peasants of the Left Bank were already ready to revolt. It was necessary to leave for the Dnieper, but all the means of crossing were destroyed or stolen by the Cossacks. And Khmelnitsky stood behind the Dnieper with a formidable two hundred thousandth army. It was foolish to resist him with six thousand, albeit selected, troops.
It was decided to leave for Volhynia. It was necessary to overcome about six hundred miles, cross the Desna, Dnieper and Pripyat, overcome impassable bogs. And this is with the princely court, numerous refugees, convoy, artillery. In view of the difficult and long journey ahead, only the essentials were taken on the road. All the valuables that can be hidden have disappeared in numerous dungeons. Vishnevetsky expected to soon return to his "power". So we left lightly.
However, the prince made a big mistake. Failed to return. As a result of the war of liberation, the left bank of the Dnieper was forever out of the power of the Polish king, and the “Zadneprovskaya state” ceased to exist.
At the end of June 1648, about 15 thousand rebellious peasants with a small detachment of Cossacks approached the abandoned Lubny. They instantly "took Lubny by storm and ruined, the fathers of the Bernardines were put to death, and with them a lot of gentry."
The city was brutally plundered and burned, the guards and the castle servants were killed, and the rebels literally razed the Vishnevetsky castle to the ground. And many years later, until the end of the 19th century, the ruins of the castle regularly served for the inhabitants of Lubensk as a source of free building material, primarily rubble, stone and brick.
Treasures of Vishnevetsky. Vishnevetsky Palace in Lubny.
The wealth seized from the robbed and slaughtered Lubny residents formed the basis of the family wealth of several Little Russian noble families. The loot was enough for everyone: in the city many gentry and merchants hid from the war, and the townspeople were not poor people.
The first information about underground caches in Lubny was collected at the end of the 19th century by the historian K. Bochkarev. The existence of ancestral treasures hidden underground is confirmed not only by legends. During construction work and in the failures of the earth, periodically occurring in the city, previously unknown passages and dungeons were discovered more than once. The tunnels, lying at a depth of three to seven meters, often had Gothic vaults; often these were intricate labyrinths with numerous branches, it is not clear where they lead. In the 60s of the 19th century, in the area where the castle of Prince Vishnevetsky once stood, a deep underground corridor suddenly opened in the collapsed earth: , which soon happened, did not dare to break the doors.
The construction of the underground city in Lubny is often associated with the monks of the Benedictine Order, whom the militant Catholic Jeremiah Vyshnevetsky invited to Lubny to establish the Catholic faith in his capital. The monks not only erected a majestic monastery in the city, but also built extensive dungeons under it, connected by secret passages to the castle. In 1880, the owner of one of the buildings that belonged to the Benedictine monastery in the 17th-16th centuries began to treat his friends with unusual wine on solemn days. And only before his death, he admitted that he had woven an underground passage into the monastery wine cellars in his basement, from which several underground passages covered with earth went towards the castle.
In 1899, when laying the foundation on the Market Square, they found a vast dungeon, where seven human skeletons lay. From the dungeon he led an underground passage towards the Lubyanka River, but because of the blockages in it, people could not leave their shelter. And in the area where the church stood in the 17th century, they found a gallery 2.5 meters wide and 3.2 meters high. This gallery was divided into two branches: the first led to the Cathedral Square, but after 30 meters it was blocked by a blockage. On the second move we walked twenty paces and stumbled upon a half-rotten oak door. They broke it quickly, but could not go further - it was impossible to breathe because of the stale air. Several silver coins, a fragment of a sword, some half-decayed documents and medieval tiles were found here.
Treasures of Vishnevetsky were searched for a long time, but without success. In 1916, the city government allocated substantial funds for the search for the princely "treasury". For these works, a well-known specialist in the search for underground treasures, archaeologist I. Stelletsky, was invited from Moscow. But his efforts and his rich experience did not bring quick results. Due to the outbreak of the First World War, work soon had to be curtailed. In 1922-1923 the archaeologist returned to Lubny. With the help of local history buffs, he managed to accurately establish the place where the castle stood in the 17th century (Val tract), and find an underground passage leading from it towards the river, along which the defenders of the castle once escaped from the Cossacks of Colonel Krivonos. The need to build such a passage was caused by the outbreak of a popular uprising led by Bohdan Khmelnitsky. As established by excavations, this passage was soon burned by the Cossacks of Krivonos when the castle was taken by storm. Excavations have revealed traces of a horrific tragedy that took place here. The only way to escape from the burning castle was a wooden cache to the river Sula. It was set on fire by the Cossacks from the side of the exit. Those in front tried to go back, and more and more masses of fleeing people pressed in from the castle. Incredible scenes of death struggle among fire and smoke! The charred vault collapsed and buried its victims. The skeletons were found piled in a heap in the most unnatural positions. The discovered secret passage helped to reveal one of the historical mysteries, but this time the treasures of Vyshnevetsky eluded the treasure hunters.
I. Stelletsky, by his own admission, was on the right track in his quest, and it was necessary to continue to dig out the ruins of the castle in search of a cache of treasures. The historian was sure that there was another underground passage, which in the 17th century connected the Vyshnevetsky castle with the Benedictine monastery. But the archaeologist failed to test his conjecture in practice. The local authorities categorically opposed the continuation of the work, and the search had to be stopped ...
Nowadays, several enthusiasts dealing with the Vyshnevetsky treasure have suggested that this treasure will never be found. The curse of his mother lies on the treasures and on the prince himself. In 1610, when Iod Lubnami founded the Mgarsky Monastery, in a special act, Princess Vishnevetskaya cursed everyone who dared to betray the holy Orthodox faith ...
In the village of Vyshnevets, Ternopil region, a luxurious palace built in the style of classicism with baroque elements has been preserved.
The palace, its owners and inhabitants have a long and interesting history, which began at the end of the 15th century, when Prince Mikhail Vyshnevetsky built a defensive castle on the high bank of the Goryn River. Here, in the family nest, the chronicle of the mighty family of the Vishnevetsky princes begins. In 1640, Yarema Vyshnevetsky significantly strengthened the stronghold by building bastions and a monastery, which was part of the defense system. But these measures did not save the fortification from being captured by the Cossacks during the uprising in 1648 and devastated by the Turks after the signing of the Treaty of Zboriv.
Literally from the ashes, the castle was revived by Mikhail Servatsy, the last representative of the Vishnevetsky family, giving it luxury like French residences, but without depriving it of defensive significance. A huge park was laid out and a church was built.
After the death of Servatius in 1744, the estate passed to the close relatives of the Vishnevetskys - the Mnishek family. Thanks to their generosity and education, Vyshnevets becomes a cultural center. An eighty-meter mirror hall, a theater hall, a hunting hall, an art gallery, sculptures, exquisite interiors, antique furniture, magnificent dishes are far from all that appeared in the palace during its ownership by new owners. The vestibules were lined with ceramic tiles in the amount of 40,000 pieces, each with a unique pattern. The roof had an unusual blue color. The library with 22 thousand folios is the largest collection of the rarest copies in Europe. Unfortunately, most of the books have been lost. Some literary relics are kept in the National Library in Kyiv and in the All-Ukrainian Historical Museum.
For 60 years before the First World War, the palace changed 9 owners. After the war, the Kyiv architect V. Gorodetsky was engaged in reconstruction. Before World War II, the remaining valuables were taken to Moscow.
The palace housed the Gestapo and the gendarmerie during the war.
Since 1963, the estate has become an architectural monument, but this does not prevent various institutions from being located here. The premises are occupied by a garment factory, vocational schools and other organizations. Only with the proclamation of the Independence of Ukraine in 1993, research work was carried out and the castle became a branch of the State Historical and Architectural Reserve in Zbarazh. In 2005 - the National Reserve "Castles of Ternopil". Repairs and restoration of exhibits are being carried out, the territory is being ennobled. The museum is always full of visitors.
Passing through an openwork arch, then through a white pylon, a U-shaped palace of a soft peach color opens up to the eye.
The Palace Square is dissected by paths and green lawns.
The pediment is decorated with stucco depicting cupids and muses holding the family coat of arms.
Opposite the palace there are former utility rooms, a stable and a residential house for servants, where there were 70 rooms.
The modern atmosphere of the castle is as close as possible to the atmosphere of those years when the estate was called the Volyn Versailles.
And the French writer Honore de Balzac called him that. It was in this castle that he developed feelings for Evelina Hanska, who became his muse and wife.
The staircase to the second floor has changed as a result of redevelopment. But, for sure, she had no less magnificent view, and aristocrats descended along it, rustling with folds of exquisite outfits.
The art gallery presents portraits of historical figures.
Dmitry Vishnevetsky was born here in 1517 and became a Cossack leader, creating a fortress on the island of Khortytsya and not letting the Tatar-Turkish army cross the Dnieper with his small detachment.
During the Time of Troubles, one of the most adventurous couples in history, False Dmitry I and Marina Mnishek, met here. In 1605 they were engaged in the castle church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary.
The icons restored by master Maginsky are kept.
The balcony offers a view of Vyshnevets, which has been the scene of hostilities for centuries.
The Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, built in 1530, survived all the hard times, perhaps because the founders of the estate, the Vyshnevetsky princes, are buried in the courtyard.
The museum hosts exhibitions of contemporary professional artists and amateurs.
The park of the 18th century, founded in the English style, has the status of a monument of architecture and urban planning. Now the alleys are overgrown with self-seeding, and the steps of the stairs have worn out. And once aristocrats walked here, relaxing in pavilions and secluded benches.
Trees are silent witnesses of palace secrets. One of them was planted by Countess Ursula Mnishek, a lady of state. The beech has absorbed all the positive qualities of its mistress - beauty and romance.
This shop is famous for the fact that T. G. Shevchenko was seen here surrounded by local residents during his stay in Vyshnevets in 1846 as part of the Kyiv Archiographic Commission. Hearing a story about the cruel treatment of the peasants by the owner of the castle during a game of chess, when the pieces were serfs and their fate depended on the skill of the player, the poet sang the song: “Oh, woe to that tea!” In memory of the stay of the Kobzar in the palace, a memorial plaque was installed at the entrance.
At different times, the castle was visited by Peter I, Paul I, Ivan Mazepa, Nikolai Kostomarov, Lesya Ukrainka and many other prominent personalities. And each had its own history and secrets.
The Vyshnevetsky castle occupies one of the leading places in the golden reserve of the cultural heritage of the Ternopil region and Ukraine. Castle Feast - October 14, on the Intercession of the Most Holy Theotokos.
I thank the organizers of the fascinating excursion and the guide Maryana for an interesting story. I really liked the trip to this wonderful place, and I share my impressions.
You can get there from the bus station in Ternopil. Buses run frequently. Distance 47 km. Travel time 1 hour.
Address: village Vyshnevets, st. Castle, 5
+380 3550 3 12 34, +380 67 304 19 49
Open: 08:00-17:00
Website of the National Park "Castles of Ternopil":
http://nzzt.com.ua/news.php
Department of Tourism of the Ternopil Regional Administration:
tel. +380 352 43 42 31; +380 67 688 50 13.
Ternopil, st. Hrushevsky, 8
The small Volyn town of Vyshnevets is comfortably located in the upper reaches of the Goryn River, which divides it into two parts: the right one - Stary, the left - New Vyshnevets. The first written mention of the settlement belongs to 1395, when the son of the Grand Duke of Lithuania Olgerd Dmitry Korybut built a fortress on the right bank of the Goryn. The fortification did not last long - in 1494 it was swept away by the Tatar horde. Prince Michael, governor of Bratslav, built a new fortress already on the left bank. It was he who first began to call himself Prince Vyshnevetsky, and Vyshnevets himself became for many years the family nest of a powerful family.
Dmitriy (Baida) Vishnevetsky (1517 - 1564), a native of this city, brought unfading glory to the Vishnevetsky family.
Dmitry Vishnevetsky
Vyshnevetsky, having united the Cossacks, in 1552-1553 built a castle on the island of Malaya Khortitsa with his own money, which is considered the prototype of the Zaporizhzhya Sich. In 1556, he organized campaigns of Zaporozhian Cossacks against the cities of Ochakiv and Islam-Kermen. As a result of the retaliatory actions of the Turkish and Crimean troops in 1557, the castle on Malaya Khortitsa was captured and destroyed by them after a long siege. In 1558, Vishnevetsky with the Cossacks went to the service of Ivan the Terrible. He was granted the city of Belev as a fiefdom and was given lands near Moscow. In 1558, Vishnevetsky participated in the campaign of the Russian army to the Crimea, and also carried out the instructions of the king on the Don and in the North Caucasus. Vishnevetsky, in alliance with the Don Cossacks under the command of Ataman Mikhail Cherkashenin, approached Azov. Having defeated the Azov and Crimeans, Vishnevetsky went to the Kuban, where he renewed ancient Christianity and thus raised the prestige of Moscow. Vishnevetsky founded the city of Cherkassky, the capital of the Don Cossacks, on the Don. However, Vishnevetsky, dissatisfied with the tsar's indecision in opposing the Tatars, severed relations with Moscow and returned under the sovereignty of the Polish king. In 1563, he intervened in the struggle for the throne of the ruler in Moldova. He was captured and handed over to the Turkish Sultan Suleiman I, on whose orders he was executed. According to popular rumor, he was thrown onto a hook sticking out of the wall, on which he hung for three days, until the Turks shot him with bows, unable to bear the curses and ridicule of the Muslim faith. The heroic death of Vishnevetsky shocked the Cossacks. Rumor added to his name the nickname of Bayda, the hero of a folk song-legend.
The main source of information: "Zaporizhzhya Sich - the first Ukrainian state": http://history-sich.ucoz.ua/index/0-8
The fate of another extremely controversial figure is connected with the Vyshnevetsky Castle - Prince Jeremiah (Yarema) Vyshnevetsky (1617 - 1651), in relation to whom Ukrainian historians cannot decide who he is: an executioner or a brilliant politician, a collector of Ukrainian lands?
Jeremiah lost his parents early and experienced exile as a child. His uncle Konstantin Vishnevetsky, a zealous Catholic, magnate and senator, took custody of him. It is not known how the fate of Jeremiah would have developed if he had been taken care of by another uncle - the famous Kyiv Metropolitan Peter Mohyla! But Vishnevetsky was destined to become Catholic. He was educated at the Jesuit Collegium (Lviv), studied something in Italy, Spain and Holland. Upon returning home, he inherited a colossal fortune and became the largest landowner, who maintained a powerful mercenary army. His latifundium numbered 30 cities, 230 thousand people and was the largest not only in Poland, but throughout Europe.
Since the entire welfare of the prince was based on serfdom, he was an implacable enemy of the Cossacks and Bogdan Khmelnitsky personally - primarily for the anti-serfdom and separatist orientation of his uprising. During the civil war, he became famous for his unparalleled cruelty towards the enemy and towards the civilian population.
Vishnevetsky's greatest military successes were the heroic defense of Zbarazh (see below) and the victory over the Cossacks near Berestechko (1651), in which, according to Polish sources, 30,000 Cossacks died. However, this victory, after which Jeremiah was considered a real contender for the Polish throne, did not bring happiness to Vishnevetsky. Two months later, he unexpectedly died in a military camp from food poisoning, which provoked transient dysentery - he ate cucumbers and washed down with honey. The autopsy did not confirm the suspicion that the prince was poisoned (although at that time the methods of chemical analysis were extremely imperfect, in particular, they still did not know how to determine the most popular poison, arsenic). It is now impossible to confirm or refute these versions - the remains of the prince have been lost. As it turned out, he was not even buried in a Christian way. And that is not all. There was not a single lifetime portrait of Jeremiah Vishnevetsky, not a single thing belonging to him, not a single house where his foot had set foot. They talk about the "curse of Vyshnevetsky" imposed on an apostate son by his mother, an Orthodox Christian Raina (Irina) Mogilyanka. This curse had further consequences. Mikhail Vyshnevetsky - the son of Jeremiah - became the Polish king: he ruled the Commonwealth for four years, but with his death in 1673, the Vyshnevetsky family was interrupted ... Poland itself began to rapidly weaken. She lost Ukraine, the Baltic States, Prussia, Smolensk, and then for a long 150 years and generally lost her independence.
(According to articles on the sites "Jubilees in Ukraine" ( http://ubilei.in.ua/) and "Akademik" (http://dic.academic.ru).)
However, back to Vyshnevets.
During the Polish-Turkish war in 1675, the castle was captured and destroyed by the Turks. Only in 1720, the last of the Vishnevetsky princes, Mikhail Servatsy, began work on restoring the family nest. The former Vishnevetsky castle is being transformed into a luxurious residence in the French Renaissance style. The palace, the most luxurious version of which was built according to the designs of Ukrainian, Polish and French architects in 1720, became truly magnificent. The palace is two-storey, in the risalits - three-storey.
It consists of several volumes, united during the restructuring at the end of the 18th century. into a symmetrical U-like composition with axial and corner projections.
It forms an open cour d'honneur with a parterre park.
The façades leading to the cour d'honneur are highlighted in the composition by frontless porticos of the Tuscan order, and the central part with the main entrance is crowned with a triangular pediment with magnificent molding in a tympanum. The walls on the first tier are treated with rustication. The central part of the palace is highlighted by a triangular pediment with magnificent moldings in timpani.
The interior of the palace was completely lost. The design of the restored halls, of course, does not allow us to judge the former splendor.
The roof of the palace was lined with a specially cut stone that shimmered in the sun with all the colors of the rainbow (in Soviet times it was taken to the roofs of rural sheds).
From the balconies and from the windows there was an amazing view of the river,
0955
to which 3 cascades of gardens descended from the palace walls, and the river was blocked so that it formed cascades of lakes ... But even now the view of the palace from the river is incomparable.
And, as always, local history information for those traveling by public transport. The easiest way to get to Vishnivets is by bus from the regional center - Ternopil. There are direct passing trains from Moscow, for example, Moscow - Budapest.